Year :
|
c.1905 |
Material :
|
Gold,Horn,Pearl,Diamond |
Collection :
|
ALBION ART Collection |
Provenance :
|
Paul Liènard |
Exhibition : |
René Lalique
Exceptional Jewellery 1890-1912
7 March 2007 ~ 29 July 2007
Paris, Musée du Luxembourg
The Glowing Era :
Belle Epoque-Jewellery and Glassware
5 September 2007 ~ 6 January 2008
The museum of Daimaru Shinsaibashi / The museum of Daimaru Kobe /
The museum of Daimaru Tokyo |
|
<Description>
A horn, pearl, diamond and gold tiara comprising a wire work articulated band sculpted as a twig and with two asymmetrical horn floral and foliate sprays converging in the front, the flowers with diamond-set stamens and with blister pearl sprays representing the buds, mark and French control marks French Art Nouveau Paul-Gabriel Liènard, circa 1905 With the leather and gilt tooled fitted case, the interior silk stamped with PAUL LIÈNARD 49. RUE CAMBON.
<Commentary>
Paul-Gabriel Lienard, born in 1849, worked in Paris all his life. After serving his apprenticeship, he registered his own mark in 1905. He was well known for his fine jewels, particular those in the naturalistic style of the Art Nouveau, and for using pearl sprays. Towards 1910, he became influenced by the more geometric designs of the Art Deco. This jewel is a wonderful example of his early work in the Art Nouveau style which was highly fashionable at the beginning of the 20th century. He has captured the asymmetric organic naturalism, and used the inexpensive materials to maximum effect - the translucent horn would allow light to shine though. All the gems have been carefully chosen so as not to be too heavy for the wearer and deflect from the lightness of the design.
Diana Scarisbrick |
